Kleftico - Greek 'Bandit's' Lamb
- Jul 7, 2019
- 3 min read
I love food with a story and this is certainly such a dish. Greeks are known for their love of lamb and indeed, anyone who has visited a few times will have come across this most delectable and indulgent iteration. Melting lamb, whose juices have enriched the waxy potatoes, alongside a medley of peppers and a scattering of feta cheese; this is truly a king among dishes. Yet, the reason behind its existence is an intriguing one...
The story varies a little from place to place, and exact origins are always a little hard to pin down, but it is clear that the Kleftico has its origins in the mountains, where bandits and rebels would hide out from their would-be oppressors. Some trace the dish to Greek resistance to the Ottomans, others to resistance from the Germans in WW2; in either case, the 'bandits' would hide out in isolated spots in the mountains. Needing to eat, and with many sheep in supply they would naturally cook lamb. Yet a fire or even the smell of the lamb cooking would alert others to their position and thus they devised this dish: lamb in a parchment, buried in the ground and slow cooked for 12 hours (or overnight). This way, they could return at a safe time to feed and avoid capture. It turns out that this was a wonderful way to prepare a dish.
Its modern counterpart is cooked in a paper bag with a few fresh veggies and topped with feta and halloumi (although I have seen other cheeses such as Gouda used - even in Greece). Fear not though, this recipe won't take 12 hours, and you need not worry of being captured by German officers (at least I hope not).
If cooking in parchment paper seems a little daunting to you then by all means you can cook in a roasting tray as pictured here. However, for the truly authentic experience, serving in the bag is the way to go. The added drama of the package at the table, steam pouring out, to reveal the sumptuous melting lamb within, is all part of the show and adds to the anticipation and eventual enjoyment.
Serves: 6-8
Prep Time: 20 minutes
Cooking Time: 3-5 hours
Marinade Ingredients:
Lamb Shoulder
3 garlic cloves
Oregano - handful
Rosemary - a few sprigs
Lemon (zest of 1, juice of half)
Ground Cinnamon - 2 teaspoons
Olive Oil - Glug
Bay leaf
Other Ingredients:
Cyprus Potatoes (or other waxy potatoes)
Ouso (a glug or 2)
2 or 3 peppers
Feta Cheese
Halloumi or Gouda cheese
Method:
Prepare your lamb by rubbing in the marinade ingredients, adding a touch of seasoning as you go - you may want to stab a few holes in the lamb to help the flavours penetrate deep into the meat.
Add the potatoes to your parchment bag or roasting tin and pour a healthy glug of ouzo over the lamb - I tend to put the potatoes under the lamb to absorb the juices.
Chop the peppers (and other veggies such as onions) as well as the cheeses (into cubes) and add these to the parchment bag. If using a roasting tin then reserve these ingredients for later.
Seal the bag or wrap foil over the roasting tin and put in the oven at 160 degrees C for a minimum of 3 hours - I tend to cook for 4-5 hours if possible.
Continue to baste the lamb throughout cooking (if roasting).
If using a roasting tin, remove the foil for the last 20 minutes and scatter the veggies and cheese on top.
Serve with Syrah wine, Greek bouzouki music and Fasolakia - bean and tomato stew.
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